Choosing the right pair of cufflinks is about far more than selecting a colour or pattern. The finest cufflinks combine design, craftsmanship, materials and practicality — and the small details can make a surprisingly significant difference to how they look and feel when worn.
From classic enamel cufflinks and traditional silver cufflinks to richly coloured gemstones and beautifully crafted gold cufflinks, there is an extraordinary variety to choose from. But which style is right for you? And what is the difference between chain-link and t-bar fittings?
At Longmire, we have been crafting and collecting exceptional cufflinks for generations. Here is our guide to choosing a pair that suits both your style and the occasion.
Start with the Cufflink Design
The design should always be the starting point. Cufflinks are a small detail, but they can make a considerable impression at the cuff.
For a traditional and versatile choice, consider a simple oval or geometric design. These styles work effortlessly with business shirts, evening dress and more relaxed tailoring.
For those who enjoy something more distinctive, Longmire’s collection encompasses everything from hand-painted enamel and precious gemstones to natural materials and sculptural designs inspired by the natural world, sport, travel and motoring.
The beauty of a well-designed cufflink is that it can quietly complement an outfit — or become the conversation piece.
Choosing the Right Material
Material has a significant influence on the character of a cufflink
Gold Cufflinks
Gold cufflinks offer warmth and timeless sophistication. Yellow gold has a particularly traditional character and works beautifully against a crisp white shirt, while rose gold introduces a softer, contemporary warmth. For a particularly luxurious choice, 18k gold offers both substance and a beautiful richness of colour. At Longmire, solid 18ct gold provides the foundation for many of our most intricate designs, including hand-enamelled and gemstone-set pieces
Silver Cufflinks
Silver cufflinks offer a cooler, more understated aesthetic and are exceptionally versatile. Hallmarked sterling silver is a classic choice, particularly for those building their first collection of cufflinks.
Rhodium plating can also be used to enhance brilliance and help protect the surface from tarnishing, creating a crisp finish that sits beautifully against both white and coloured shirts.
Gemstones
A gemstone cufflink introduces colour, character and individuality. From deep blue sapphires and vibrant emeralds to amethyst, topaz, onyx and beautifully patterned natural stones, gemstones allow a cufflink to become much more personal.
For the collector, unusual stones can also make a design particularly memorable. The natural variation within gemstones means that no two pieces will necessarily have exactly the same character.
Enamel
Hand-applied vitreous enamel is another of the great cufflink-making traditions. Enamelled cufflinks can offer extraordinary depth and colour, particularly when the enamel is applied in successive layers and fired in a kiln. At Longmire, hand-enamelling is used across many designs, from richly coloured geometric patterns to miniature works of art depicting animals, birds and other subjects. The combination of precious metal and enamel allows the designer to introduce colour while retaining the durability expected of fine jewellery.
Chain Link or T-Bar: Which Cufflink Fitting Is Best?
The fitting is one of those details that is often overlooked when choosing cufflinks, yet it has a considerable effect on the character and wearing experience of a pair.
Two of the most enduring styles are the chain-link fitting and the t-bar fitting. Neither is necessarily better — they simply offer a different feel.
Chain-Link Cufflinks
The traditional chain-link fitting connects the decorative front of the cufflink to a rear component by means of a short chain.
There is something particularly elegant about the movement of a chain-link cufflink. The fitting has a sense of fluidity and is closely associated with traditional British and European cufflink design.
Chain links can be especially attractive on more refined or decorative pieces, allowing the cufflink to move naturally with the cuff. They also have a pleasing sense of heritage and craftsmanship.
For anyone drawn to classic tailoring and traditional jewellery, chain-link cufflinks remain an enduring choice.
T-Bar Cufflinks
The t-bar fitting has become one of the most popular modern cufflink mechanisms. A slim bar passes through the buttonhole and then rotates to sit securely behind the cuff.
T-bars are straightforward to use, making them particularly appealing for everyday wear. They also provide a clean, neat appearance behind the cuff and work exceptionally well with contemporary cufflink designs.
At Longmire, t-bars appear across many of our collections, from understated classics to highly sculptural and characterful designs.
So, Which Should You Choose?
The answer depends largely on personal preference.
Choose chain links if you appreciate:
- Traditional craftsmanship
- A softer, more fluid movement
- Classic British styling
- The character of a traditional cufflink fitting
Choose t-bars if you prefer:
- Easy everyday wear
- A secure and straightforward fitting
- Contemporary practicality
- A clean appearance behind the cuff
Ultimately, the best fitting is the one that feels natural to you. A beautifully made cufflink should be enjoyable to put on as well as to wear.
Consider the Shirt and Occasion
The most versatile cufflinks should work with more than one shirt.
For formal occasions, classic gold, silver or gemstone-set designs can provide a refined finishing touch. For business tailoring, understated geometric designs and traditional enamel work are particularly versatile.
A white shirt provides an excellent canvas for almost any cufflink, allowing colour and precious materials to stand out. Darker shirts can create a more dramatic effect with white gold, silver or brightly coloured enamel.
And cufflinks are not restricted to black-tie occasions. A well-chosen pair can look equally at home with a blazer, open jacket or smart shirt worn without a tie.
Building a Cufflink Collection
For anyone beginning a collection, it makes sense to start with one or two versatile designs before introducing more individual pieces.
A classic pair of gold or silver cufflinks is an excellent foundation. From there, enamel, gemstones and more expressive designs can introduce colour and personality.
As a collection develops, cufflinks can become a fascinating reflection of the wearer. A pair might commemorate a passion, celebrate a profession, recall a favourite place or simply appeal because the craftsmanship is extraordinary.
This is one of the reasons cufflinks make such enduring gifts. Unlike many accessories, they can be intensely personal while remaining practical enough to be worn and enjoyed.
Fit and Proportion Matter
Cufflinks should sit comfortably within the proportions of the cuff.
A smaller, more discreet design can be ideal for everyday business wear, while a larger sculptural cufflink can provide a more expressive statement.
There is no universal "correct" size. The important consideration is balance: the cufflink should complement the shirt and the wearer rather than overwhelm them.
At Longmire, our collection ranges from delicately proportioned designs to substantial sculptural pieces, allowing the wearer to choose according to both personal style and occasion.
The Final Detail
Cufflinks may be small, but they offer an extraordinary opportunity for craftsmanship.
The choice between gold and silver, enamel and gemstones, classic geometry and playful character, chain links and t-bars all contribute to the final experience. The best pair is not necessarily the most elaborate — it is the one that feels right when it is on the cuff.
For some, that will be a beautifully restrained pair of silver cufflinks. For others, it may be a richly coloured piece of enamel, an unusual gemstone cufflink, or a pair of hand-crafted gold cufflinks destined to become a signature part of their wardrobe.
And that is perhaps the enduring appeal of the cufflink: a small object with an unusually large capacity for individuality.
Choose well, wear often, and let the cufflink tell a little of your story.
